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Home   Blog   Wheel Building Tip No. 2 - Lubricating Nipples

Wheel Building Tip No. 2 - Lubricating Nipples

May 25, 2009 7 Comments

[Note: this is #2 in a series of tips to be published during 2009.]

Lubricate your nipples. Yes, yes, you've heard this advice before...maybe back when you were a runner? Seriously, it sounds simple but deserves emphasis. Why does it matter and what is the science behind this practice? What are the practical benefits and what are some effective means to lube nipples?

It's worth asking, to begin the discussion, why this lubrication is not universal? Seems simple, why doesn't everyone already do it? There are actually several good reasons, besides inexperience, that some builders (especially mass producers) continue to build dry.

(1) Brass, the most common nipple material, has a self lubricating property and is remarkably smooth turning. This low coefficient of friction against steel and aluminum means you can almost skip lubrication in the threads.

(2) Corrosion resistance of brass is also quite good, which explains why it is used for so many nautical fittings. While not equivalent to stainless materials, this resistance makes lubrication less important.

(3) Nipples become cemented in place by the corrosion that eventually occurs with dry brass nipples, which helps stabilize a wheel against vibration induced loosening. Trouble turning nipples means difficult re-truing but freedom from loosening is a valuable benefit.

(4) A dry nipple reaches a point where no further turning is possible, the combination of thread and rim friction becomes too much. This acts as a handy signal to the builder to stop tightening and simply finish the wheel. No tension gauge needed. Conveniently for mass producers, the signal comes early at lower tension than conscientious builders prefer.

Well, none of those factors apply to us. We all seek high optimal tension for maximum wheel stiffness and longevity. Right?

Lubricating nipples should focus on the nipple to rim contact, not the threads. The former produces much more friction than the threads. Thread friction is, however, still important especially because it can cause a spoke to wind up. Wind up confuses the builder, masking the precise magnitudes of adjustments. It also stresses the spoke at the threads, a weakness best to avoid. Oil is the best all around lubrication for these parts although I've heard builders use a grease stick on rims prior to building. I'm a fan of CLEAR, a food-safe lube that is dense enough to last through heavy weather and cleaning.

 

Handy oilers.

 

I recommend coating spokes threads with a Teflon material like SpokePrep or FIX, to lubricate threads, resist vibration, and inhibit corrosion.



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7 Responses

Michael Lawton
Michael Lawton

November 02, 2021

What are your thoughts on using locking nipples (e.g. Sapim Secure Lock) instead of Loctite?

Brian Pound
Brian Pound

November 02, 2021

Ric,

With the gaining popularity of Carbon rims in Mountain Biking, do you have any ideas/opinions on what type of lubricant to use at the nipple/rim interface? A few of us at the shop have been discussing what to use since there seems to be some mixed opinions on what type of lubricant to use. Some manufacturer’s, like Ray from Derby Rims states using any grease is ok but I seem to recall that grease on carbon can sometimes make it swell.

I know White Lightning produces a product that is said to be carbon friendly but have not had a chance to use it. I thought perhaps using some dry graphite powder might be ok but haven’t tried it yet.

Between your time at FSA and Mad Fiber, did you encounter this question and if so, what were your findings?

Love the blog and appreciate your insight and willingness to share what you know.

Brian

David Stihler
David Stihler

November 02, 2021

Hello, when applying Loctite 220 at the nipple opening. Do you mean the opening toward the hub or the opening inside the rim. Thanks

Anonymous
Anonymous

November 02, 2021

Where do you buy loctite 220? I haven't been able to find it local and its $20 with shipping for 10 mil where I've been able to find it online.

Ric Hjertberg
Ric Hjertberg

November 02, 2021

There are many sources. One of my favorites is McMaster-Carr:
http://www.mcmaster.com/#loctite-220/=k07bjr

$20 is a lot but it lasts forever.

Ric Hjertberg
Ric Hjertberg

November 02, 2021

I'm fond of Loctite 220. This is NOT 222. 220 is a wicking formula, but "removable." Many are familiar with 290 which is "permanent."

I apply 220 with a needle/syringe like dropper, right at the nipple opening (where spoke enters). One drop. It wicks in and does a perfect job. When there's already lubricating oil in the threads, its strength is reduced. No

robotkenshi
robotkenshi

November 02, 2021

Can you elaborate a little bit more on what you mean by "when finished, use a wicking Loctite". How is it applied, how much, when?

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